OVERVIEW: CANOES GET HURT - IT’S OK (MOST OF THE TIME)

Introduction

Like kids playing outdoors, canoes get scrapes and scratches and bumps, the occasional cut, sometimes little fractures and occasionally a break.  Like kids, most are good with a kind word (to the paddler).  Some require a bit of first aid and others require more aggressive treatment.

The goal of this post is to provide an introductory overview of canoe damage, provide some info on assessing damage, talk about some things you can do for simple issues and provide some pointers to info on how to handle more complex problems.

Durability is key:  

Keep in mind that the critical issue around damage isn’t whether a canoe can be scratched or not, it’s how durable it is - how well it absorbs damage and survives to bring you home. 

• Canoes are designed to be durable enough to handle the conditions they are built for, i.e., whitewater creek boats are designed to absorb more abuse than Olympic flatwater sprint C1s. 

• There are lots of ways to build in durability: changing the type and amount of material, adding sacrificial layers (gelcoat, poly laminates with outer abrasion layers), altering the hull design and adding internal and external reinforcement, etc.

• Trade-offs are part of the equation - accepting that minor damage is better than major failure.  For example - a flexible hull is better able to absorb impacts, but gel coat is generally less flexible. The tradeoff is an impact that the hull can absorb may result in gel pops, which are easier to handle.

“Yep, that’s going to leave a mark”

Regardless of the ads, any boat can be damaged:

• Land bow/stern first, drag from point A to B? Expect abrasion.

• Pull over a rocky weir, slide over a sharp branch stub or along a concrete wall?  Expect scratches, some of which may reach the inner materials.

• Run into rocks, rebar, hit/get pinned sideways, drop even a short distance onto a concrete floor?  Expect scrapes, gouges, chips, creases, cracks and/or holes. 

How much of a mark depends on boat durability, age, temperature, water flow, angle, speed, point of impact, weight in the boat, amount of weirdness in the atmosphere and more.

• In general Aluminum is most durable, Poly is next and then Composites.  Individual layups vary.  Wood&Canvas is probably at the more durable side of Composite.

• In general, layups described as “Tuff”, “Expedition”, etc. are more durable than the equivalent without those terms.

• “Ultralight” is tricky.  Safest bet is to assume the boat is rugged enough for its design goal, but don’t try to paddle it outside the design parameters.

  • For example, an Ultralight Prospector may be capable of handling whitewater turbulence, but stay away from “boney” impacts.

How many scars and how bad they are is hugely dependent on two choices:

• How well the canoe matches your skill level and when and where you paddle (your “paddling profile”).

• How you treat the boat when you’re on and off the water. 

Assessing damage

Inspect regularly:  Checking for abrasions, scratches, cracks, creases, weak points, holes

• Important to identify if the core material is exposed or weakened

  • For poly, this is the interior foam layer, 

  • For composite it’s the underlying cloth/wood and resin.

  • For aluminum, it’s the aluminum.

Abrasions - general wearing away of a surface, as opposed to specific scratches

• How it happens:  Running the boat ashore bow/stern first, dragging the boat over gravel bars, routinely sliding over beaverdams, along sandy/rocky shores to launch and similar.

• Look For:  Wear on the outer layer of the hull - the outer plastic layer in poly boats, the gel/clear coat on composites, canvas on W&C.  You want to catch this before the foam (poly), cloth or wood (composites) is exposed or a hole through the hull appears.

Scratches:  Scratches, by themselves, aren’t structural - cosmetic

• How it happens:  

  • Scratches are a sliding event - sliding over or by rocks, stones, submerged sharp objects, on car racks, etc., etc.  It can seem like things just jump out of nowhere.

• Look for:  

  • For poly/composite:  exposed foam or cloth at the bottom of the scratch.

  • For aluminum:  thinning of material, possible hole

Spider cracks and chips - 

• How it happens:

  • Generally the result of pressure on a small area - an impact, leaning on a point with one hand, setting the boat down on a rock or over tightening a tie down.

• Look for:

  • Pattern of cracks radiating from a point.  

    • If spider cracks are tight with no evidence of water penetration, then may be simply cosmetic, with no action needed.

    • If cracks are more open, then should be dealt with

  • Chips or chunks missing

    • If the core is showing, then should be dealt with.

  • “Soft spot in the material:

    • Impacts can “crackle” the interior layer.  These soft spots weaken the overall structure.  How much needs to be done depends on the placement and extent of the soft spot.

Creases and Holes:  

• How they happen:

  • Creases are generally impact injuries, though can occur from over tightening straps.  Drops or having something drop on the boat are another cause.

  • Holes are generally the result of abrasion or impacts.

• Look for:

  • Creases are folds, similar to the ridge when you fold a piece of paper.

    • Check to see if it includes ribs, foam stiffener on the floor

    • May be accompanied by gel coat pops - chunks missing

  • Holes:  Defined as “oh my gosh, it’s leaking!” 

    • Can be tricky to find exact location.

What to Do

Core not exposed or weakened.

• Cosmetic - no action required.

Core exposed, but intact

• In field:  cover to prevent water absorption

• In shop:  fill with gel or plastic weld

  • Note:  The original color has likely faded - an exact color match will be hard. 

Core weakened (crackled, soft, creased), whether exposed or not

• Depending on location and extent - may not require immediate action.

• If action required

  • Field:  patch kit appropriate for material - fiberglass or plastic.

  • Shop:  more complete repair.  Generally done with fiberglass.

Hole/Thru crack

• In field:  patch kit appropriate to boat hull material

• In shop:  Full repair

Where to find help:

Your local paddling shop: They should have repair kits and know local resources that can assist/do the repairs. Some will do the repair themselves.

Local paddling clubs, organizations like Wooden Canoe Heritage Association. Look for both local in person as well as on-line groups.

YouTube: It’s amazing what you can find on YouTube. Review several videos to assess what approach might fit your particular issue.

Other:

• Marinas with repair facilities

• Fiberglass repair shops (even if not canoe specific)

Material Types:

• “Poly” refers to Royalex, T-Formex, SP3 and similar manufactured materials.  These are laminates, usually with an outer abrasion layer, a foam core and an inner layer.

• “Composites” are also laminates of with an exterior abrasion layer of gel or clear coat,, a core that consists of some form of “cloth” (aramid (“Kevlar”), carbon, Innegra, fiberglass, etc.) impregnated/infused with resin and possibly including foam or wood stiffeners, and a inner scuff coating.  Wood and Canvas canoes are a specialized form of composite.

• Aluminum is, well, aluminum.