Okay, now you’ve got a boat - kayak, canoe, SUP, Hobie - and you need to put it somewhere. Here are some things to think about when looking for a storage solution.

First, a good storage solution shelters the boat from long term exposure to UV and, particularly if you have a roto-molded or, to a lesser extent, ABS plastic boat, from heat. If stored outside, you also need to think about heavy loads (like snow), falling objects (like branches and brick walls), critters lookin’ for a home, extended contact with moisture/dirt, etc.

Where:

The ideal spot is an easily accessible inside location that’s cool, shaded, with plenty of space for a well padded rack, cradle or sling. A garage, basement, barn or shed that’s shaded to keep the heat down are good. If it has extensive windows without UV glass, then you want to keep the boat out of the direct sunlight.

If inside isn’t an option, then a shaded spot (north wall of a building, etc.) protected from snow loads, ice, and falling objects like trees and walls. The shade can be provided naturally, by a partial roof or by UV resistant fabric. If using UV fabric, rig it so it doesn’t rest on the boat if possible - this will reduce moisture build up.

By the way, cold is generally not a problem - the only reported issues are with plastic based (Royalex) canoes with wooden gunwales. The different expansion and contraction rates for the plastic and wood can cause cracks where the materials are fastened together.

Regardless of location, use a UV protective wax or spray, like 303 Aerospace Protectant, on the hull and hatches. Extends the life of the boat and keep hatches flexible. 303 is spray on/wipe off that will also put a shine on your boat. Good stuff.

How:

Boats are best racked resting on their strongest part. For kayaks that’s on their side. For canoes, it’s upside down on the gunwales. SUPs can be racked pretty much any attitude, including standing up on the stern. Flat bottomed sit-on-top fishing kayaks can rest hull down or on a stand with supports fitting into the hull tunnels.

If a kayak or canoe has to be racked on the hull, look for racks that support the boat with straps or have a cradle shape. A shelf that supports the whole hull also works.

Plastic based materials, especially roto molded plastic and, to a lesser extent, ABS plastic that are left in a spot that heats up should be supported along as much of the hull’s length as possible to avoid developing dents where they rest on the supports.

Rack systems come in three broad categories - flat/horizontal (including cradles), “J”s and slings

In general, most racks have two supports that you’ll install spaced to divide the boat into thirds. Supports should be padded and wide enough so they don’t crease the hull. Supporting only at the ends is not a good thing.

Flat/horizontal “racks” include sawhorses, horizontal bars fastened to the wall or a support on the ceiling, and sling stretcher bars. Stretcher bars are placed in a sling to provide a solid horizontal surface to rest canoe gunwales on. Flat/horizontal racks are best suited for canoes (resting on the gunwales), SUPs and flat bottom fishing kayaks.

Cradles are less frequent, but are best if storing kayaks hull down. The ones we use at the shop are cut from foam blocks and used to set boats on the floor.

“J”s are best for storing kayaks and SUPs on their sides. SUP “J”s have a much tighter curve than those used for kayaks.

Slings are essentially straps, some padded. They can be fastened to a wall, overhead or used with a pulley system. Several companies make horizontal bars or “J”s that hold a sling the boat rests on. Slings will support any boat/SUP and follow the curve of the hull, providing good support. I prefer to use 2x4 stretchers in the slings for my canoe, resting the canoe gunwale down on the stretchers.

If you’re storing you boat on the floor or a shelf, the “rack” can be a simple piece of carpet, since the floor/shelf provides the support along the length of the hull. Foam block cradles, shaped to match the hull are another good, inexpensive solution that raise the hull a bit to allow for air circulation.

Last thought:

All racks need to be securely fastened to the supporting structure - don’t skimp here. If you’re using a pulley system, periodically check all components to ensure they’re in good shape. This includes things like checking that the screws holding the hooks in place haven’t worked loose (yes, there’s a story with this one). Most racks come with all the necessary hardware, but take a minute to read the box and talk to the seller to make sure you don’t have the exception.

That’s it - hope it’s been helpful. I’m posting some sample photos below and will work on a quick video - I’ll add the link when it’s ready. And here’s a link to a good discussion on paddling.com: How do you mount/store your kayak?

Keith